Historically Accurate Paper for WWII Re-enactment and Film Props

As a creator of paper film props and re-enactment documents, I often come across repros on the internet that are made with the wrong size paper or incorrect materials. Many WWII documents are printed on standard A4 paper, even though this was not a common format at the time. The type of paper used also plays a crucial role in the authenticity: modern paper is usually too white and smooth, whereas many documents in the 1930s and 1940s were printed on wood-pulp or cotton-based paper.

To create truly realistic paper props, it’s important to understand the materials and techniques that were used back then. In this article, I’ll discuss the different types of paper, sizes, and finishing techniques you need to replicate WWII documents accurately.

Paper production in the 1930s and 1940s was quite different from today’s standards. Most documents were printed on wood-pulp or cotton-based paper.

• Wood-pulp paper – Commonly used for newspapers, pamphlets, and some military forms. This paper yellowed quickly and became brittle.
• Cotton or linen-based paper – Used for official documents such as passports and military orders. This paper was stronger and aged more slowly.
• Tinted paper – Some military documents were printed on colored paper, such as green, blue, or pink, depending on the administrative function.
• Carbon paper – Often used for orders and transport documents that required multiple copies.

For an authentic look, you can use modern sugarcane paper or unbleached paper, as these come closest to the old wood-pulp paper.

Each country used its own paper sizes. Modern A4 sizes weren’t standardized everywhere, so it’s crucial to choose the right size when recreating WWII documents.

Germany (Wehrmacht, Luftwaffe, Kriegsmarine)

The Normblatt DIN 476 (the predecessor of our A4 format) was introduced in 1922, but in practice much older paper was still used. Common sizes are:

• A4 (210 × 297 mm) – Used for orders and official documents.
• A5 (148 × 210 mm) – For personal papers, such as the Soldbuch and Feldpost letters.
• Long-format forms – For transport documents and orders.

United Kingdom (British Army, RAF, Royal Navy)

Standard paper sizes were based on the Imperial System and measurements were given in inches. Common sizes were:

• Foolscap (8 × 13 inches, ±203 × 330 mm) – Longer than A4, often used for military orders and reports.
• Quarto (8 × 10 inches, ±203 × 254 mm) – For administrative documents and handwritten reports.
• Octavo (6 × 9 inches, ±152 × 229 mm) – Smaller documents, such as identity cards and forms.

United States (US Army, US Navy, USAAF)

The US already used Letter as the standard size, but Legal was also widely used for contracts and military orders. For small documents such as ID cards, custom sizes were often used, depending on the issuing authority.

• Letter (8.5 × 11 inches, 216 × 279 mm) – The standard size for American military documents.
• Legal (8.5 × 14 inches, 216 × 356 mm) – Used for contracts and orders.

Paper was finished differently in the 1930s and 1940s. To create a realistic WWII prop, you need to consider:

• Surface – Old paper was often rougher and less finely pressed. Use uncoated, rough paper for an authentic look.
• Watermarks – Official documents and currency often had watermarks. These are difficult to replicate, but a light background print can simulate the effect.
• Print quality – The ink and print quality were less sharp than today’s standards. Print in dark gray instead of pure black and use slightly worn-out typewriter fonts.

Modern paper is often too white and smooth to resemble historical paper. In the 1930s and 1940s, paper was often light yellow or beige due to the use of wood pulp.

• Aging with tea or coffee – Briefly dip the paper in tea or coffee for a light yellowed appearance.
• Printing on eco-paper – Use unbleached paper to achieve a natural aging effect.
• Burning or crumpling – For a war-damaged effect, you can create light scorch marks or crumple and smooth out the paper.

Many WWII documents weren’t bound with staples, but were assembled in other ways:

• Sewn or tied together – Especially for official files.
• Secured with paper fasteners – Common for military reports.
• Loose in folders – Without holes, often with a paper cover.

To create WWII documents that are as realistic as possible, pay attention to the right paper types, sizes, and aging techniques:

• Choose wood-pulp or cotton-based paper for an authentic texture.
• Use original sizes such as Foolscap, Legal, or A5 instead of A4.
• Mimic old printing techniques with lighter ink and vintage fonts.
• Age paper with tea, coffee, or scorch marks for extra realism.
• Use traditional binding methods like paper fasteners or twine.

By following these techniques, you can create WWII documents that are virtually indistinguishable from the real thing. Want ready-made historical documents or templates for your re-enactment or film production? Check out our shop!